Mon 3 Aug, Kamyanets Podilsky

I moved into a less extravagant ‘apartment’ (hotel room with a microwave and tiny fridge) also in the premium old town – the walk from the bus station, through the new town, hadn’t looked promising. But Ukrainian town planners allow streets of bars, cafes and shops to spring up anywhere and after a quick wander I was soon drinking oat latte and watching the world go by. The centre of town seemed to be European Square, with its row of flags and a modern but bland German coffee chain. One drink seemed to rent a whole table for your entourage, then you resumed your promenading. There was almost no litter/graffiti, almost no begging, certainly no antisocial behaviour. 

Most places take plastic but I’m aware they pay fees so I prefer to use cash. On my last day in Ukraine, I withdrew £50, confident of my return. I wasn’t surprised by the lack of vegan groceries, but the poor things are missing out on houmous. They do understand refreshment, though. I picked up a half-litre can of 8% G&T, which declared itself ‘low alcohol’.

There were very few vegan options for dinner, but I tried an Asian place. I read out my now well-rehearsed vegan speech and they proposed fried aubergines in a sticky sauce, with rice. I smiled enthusiastically, explained I was very hungry and gave a generous tip. It was absolutely delicious – and absolutely huge. I ordered another beer and watched the sunset and the last of the promenading. Back in my apartment, I cracked open the G&T – to lighten my rucksack, I told myself. I slept like a log again.