Thu 30 Jul, Vorokhta

Dima replied. They made it down safely but not till 11. It was 2 by the time they got back to Vorokhta. He didn’t mention any trouble for breaking the curfew. 

The massage (plus lots of stretching) had done the trick. My legs felt fine. But I had a lazy day anyway. I spotted a sauna in the room next to the washing machine, but the manager said it was too expensive to turn on. Before I could even jump in with my western privilege and ask how much it would cost, he recommended a nearby place that welcomed non residents: I trotted off to Mini Hotel SPA Excellent Family. Like many high end Ukrainian establishments, it was actually a bit rough around the edges. The 3mm acrylic pool wall was a cm higher than the patio, so they’d just thrown carpet over it. The changing room was bare OSB, but not for any industrial chic vibe. The sauna had a huge picture window with a sunset view over distant mountains. I set about starting a conversation in my bastard Russ-krainian, in the hope of finding an English speaker to take pity on me. The nouveau riche were disappointingly uninterested in an Englishman. Finally, a young guy called Zakhar. A shop worker from Ivano Frankivsk, he hadn’t enjoyed English at school, but he was friendly enough and we muddled through, each mangling the other’s language. I spotted him later by the poolside and offered him a drink, then immediately noticed he was actually in his underpants. I’d interrupted him changing. Awkward. Then complete panic when I noticed he had slightly less hair on his chinny chin chin. “Erm, are you the guy I was chatting to in the sauna?” He said yes but I knew he wasn’t. He apologised that he had to leave. It was closing time anyway so I had to leave too. I spotted the brothers on their way out. I really had offered a drink to an unknown, half-naked young man! I hammed up my surprise. Mama was highly amused; it must happen all the time. I hoped. 

Two guys from the hostel (both called Alex) were hiking to a ruined observatory on another mountain, Pip Ivan (2022m). I accepted their offer to join them for the ascent (10km, +1320m, 5 hours up) then retrace my steps while they did a 3 day hike. They were drinking shots at midnight before a 5am start.